Jacket Styles : Italian

Our Italian jacket is inspired by classic Northern Italian style, the epitome of the European suiting tradition. Rooted in custom, the Italian style is exemplified by a trim fit, close to the body with a light, flexible canvas.

The objective of the Italian style jacket is to create a perfectly fitted silhouette and sprezzatura – the art of stylish nonchalance, and appearing well-dressed without appearing to care at all. Thomas Henry has designed our Italian jacket to be a timeless classic, meeting all the fundamentals of menswear to keep you looking sharp for generations to come.

The overall feel of this style of jacket is perfectly fitted, light construction and effortless style.
The Italian fit is ideal for gentlemen looking for a professional presentation, creating a classic V-shaped silhouette with a natural shoulder line and trim fit. Our recommended starting point for your everyday suiting.

Italian Jacket
  • 1Natural shoulder line, with minimal shoulder padding
  • 26 cm notch lapel
  • 3High arm holes
  • 4Light half-canvas construction
  • 5Fitted close to the body through waist and sleeves, for a sleek silhouette
  • 6Slanted flap pockets
  • 7Functional surgeon cuffs, with slanted and kissing buttons
  • 8No top-stitching
  • 9Modern jacket length (i.e., slight shorter)

Download Style Guide


Jacket Styles : English

Inspired by the sartorial elegance of the Prince of Wales, Thomas Henry’s English style jacket is emphasized by a pronounced shoulder line and a more structured garment, consistent with the British tradition (and a stiff upper lip).

Historically, the suit jacket was designed for the British military elite and nobility in the mid-19th century, As such, it comes with slightly more structure in the fit, and slightly more formality. At Thomas Henry, we aim for a modern fit, but consistent with the classic English style we have made our English jacket featuring a straight shoulder line, semi-rope shoulder with defined padding, a tasteful peak lapel and with a full fit through the body and sleeves.

The English fit is ideal for athletic or muscular gentlemen, including those who are tall and have wide shoulders, and both casual blazers as well as everyday suiting.

English Jacket
  • 1Straight shoulder line with semi-rope shoulder
  • 27 cm peak lapel
  • 3High arm holes
  • 4Full canvas construction
  • 5Ease of fit through body and sleeves
  • 6Straight flap pockets, with flap ticket pocket
  • 7Functional surgeon cuffs, with flat and straight buttons
  • 8Top-stitching on lapels and pockets
  • 9Traditional jacket length (i.e., slight longer)

Download Style Guide

Jacket Styles : Neapolitan

Neapolitan jackets are typified by their light construction, and offer comfort and ease of movement, such that this style is often referred to as the “leisurewear of tailoring”. Our Neapolitan jackets are made in a deconstructed style with a half-canvas, minimal lining in the jacket interior, soft shoulders and a 3-on-2 button roll.

The 3-on-2 roll is an essential detail of Neapolitan jackets, by which the jacket is made with three front buttons however the top button is ironed by the tailor and not meant to be buttoned.

We at Thomas Henry recommend our classic Neapolitan style jackets for lightweight summer fabrics such as tropical wool, linen and silk-blends in particular, and also for heavier winter-weight fabrics, such as tweed and cashmere. Both these distinct types of fabrics work seamlessly with the texture and weight of the fabrics to create the perfect smart-casual look.

Neapolitan Jacket
  • 1Soft shoulders, no padding
  • 2Shirt style sleeve construction (spalla camicia)
  • 3Wide 7.5 cm notch or peak lapels
  • 4Light half-canvas construction with minimal jacket lining – completely deconstructed, or quarter/half-lined
  • 53-on-2 button roll
  • 6Patch pockets
  • 7Functional surgeon cuffs, with straight and kissing buttons
  • 8Top-stitching on lapels, pockets and jacket seams
  • 9Shorter jacket length, for ease of movement

Download Style Guide

Jacket Styles : Double-Breasted

The double-breasted jacket is not a different fit or type of construction, and you can choose this for any of the Italian, English or Neapolitan style jackets. However, for many men double-breasted suits remain a bit of an enigma – and a style that many are reluctant to try. For that reason, Thomas Henry thought it best to describe some of the typical features of double-breasted jackets, to de-mystify this style and allow you to consider it as an option for your next custom suit.

Technically speaking, a double-breasted jacket is simply one that fastens with three buttons at the centre of the jacket front, typically with two buttons. A double-breasted jacket wraps further around the chest to fasten slightly off-centre and features many more buttons on the front, as compared to the traditional single-breasted jacket.

The Thomas Henry double-breasted jacket will always feature peak lapels, minimalist flap pockets, and either a 6×2, “six-by-two” (or 4×2, “four-by-two”) button configuration. This means that there are three (two) rows of two buttons on the front of the jacket – the bottom two on the right-hand side of which may be fastened; the rest are decorative. Of course, as with any suit jacket you never button the bottom button.

As with all suiting, the most important aspect of the double-breasted jacket is the fit; so long as the jacket is perfectly fitted, we at Thomas Henry believe it is a modern classic appropriate for all types of gentlemen.

Double-Breasted Jacket
  • 1High gorge line
  • 28 cm peak lapels
  • 3High arm holes
  • 4Half or full canvas construction
  • 5Fitted close to the body, with a pronounced V-silhouette
  • 66-on-2 or 4-on-2 button stance
  • 74.5 cm straight, slim flap pockets
  • 8Functional surgeon cuffs, slanted with kissing buttons
  • 9Shorter jacket length

Download Style Guide

By Appointment Only

We aren’t an ordinary retail shop. Instead, we aim for an approachable, personable service where we can take the time to get to know you and your style. We schedule appointments either at your home, your office or our studio space (depending on the type and length of the appointment). A great-fitting, custom suit can’t be rushed – whether in its design, tailoring, or getting to know the clothier you are working with to make sure it the custom garments are made just right for you.

Please do reach out to Thomas Henry Made if you have any questions or you are ready to get started.

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Thomas Henry Made Custom Made to Measure Suits Toronto New York

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